How to Know if Your SPF is Actually Clean
Summary
To know if your sunscreen is actually clean, start with the active ingredients. For decades, only two sunscreen filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) were recognized by the FDA as Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective (GRASE). In June 2026, a third was added: bemotrizinol. Everything else is still under review. And buzzwords like “clean,” "natural," and “reef-safe” have no legal definition and are not regulated.
In This Article, You’ll Learn . . .
- How to read a sunscreen label and what the active ingredients section tells you.
- Which chemical sunscreen filters are still under FDA review, and why that matters.
- What “clean,” “natural,” “reef-safe,” and “dermatologist-tested” mean (hint: legally, very little).
- The difference between chemical and mineral sunscreen and what non-nano zinc oxide means.
- What truly clean sunscreen looks like in both the active and inactive ingredients.
- What to look for in a tallow-based, seed-oil-free formula and why the base matters as much as the filter.
Before You Reach For That Bottle of Sunscreen...
When was the last time you read your sunscreen label?
Not the front, but the back — the drug facts panel with the long list of ingredients.
If the answer is never, or not recently, we’re not here to shame you. Most people never think to read the back, or even understand what they’re reading! And honestly, decoding a sunscreen label isn’t something most of us were ever taught to do.
But we’re on a mission to change that.
The mainstream message around sunscreen has become “wear it every day, all year.” Which means for a lot of people, it’s one of the most frequently applied products in their entire routine! And what’s in it (applied consistently, to your whole body) really matters.
Chemical filters linked to hormone disruption have been found in human bloodstreams at hundreds of times the FDA’s own safety threshold. 1 And that’s after just one single day of use! The worst part is that they’re still found in products marketed for daily wear. (How this is still legally allowed, we seriously don’t know.)
Of the 16 sunscreen active ingredients the FDA has reviewed, only three have been confirmed as safe and effective.
And you know the terms you see on the labels like “clean,” “natural,” and “reef-safe” that make you feel like you’re making the right sunscreen choice? None of them have a legal definition.
Now this is definitely not us saying that you should skip sun protection altogether. There’s absolutely a time and a place for sunscreen, and we love it in the right context. But it means that you deserve to know and understand what’s in the sunscreen you’re using regularly.
And so, we’ve done the research, because we want you to enjoy sunny days with the trust that your body is safe!
So let’s start by talking about what’s in your sunscreen and how to audit what you’re putting on your skin.
Our Sun Care Directory and Holistic Sun Protection guide go deep into our full perspective on responsible sun exposure. And our Beyond SPF article covers everything that surrounds sun protection, from morning light rituals to the after-sun ritual your skin deserves.
The Active Ingredients
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At a Glance
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Every sunscreen sold in the United States is classified as an over-the-counter drug, which means the active ingredients (a.k.a the UV filters) are required to be listed separately from everything else under a “Drug Facts” label.
This label on the back is where your sunscreen audit starts.
The FDA has reviewed 16 sunscreen active ingredients and sorted them into three categories:
- GRASE (Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective)
- Not safe
- “Insufficient data” (in other words, they don’t know whether they’re safe or not)
Here are the results: Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have long been the only two ingredients classified as GRASE. In June 2026, that changed. The FDA approved bemotrizinol (also known as BEMT) as the first new sunscreen active ingredient in almost 25 years! 2 And it’s only the third ingredient ever to receive the GRASE stamp of approval.
Bemotrizinol is a chemical UV filter that’s been used in Europe and Asia since 1999 and it offers better UVA protection than other chemical filters. And unlike the other 12 chemical filters still under review, bemotrizinol has a lower absorption level through your skin into your bloodstream, which is definitely a step forward for the conventional sunscreen industry. 3
But, bemotrizinol is still a chemical filter that works by absorbing UV rays and converting them into heat. This is a very different mechanism from mineral protection. We’ll share more on why that matters to us (and to you!) below.
Two ingredients, PABA and trolamine salicylate, are confirmed as not safe and are no longer used.
But the remaining 12 (including oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, and octocrylene)? They fall into the “insufficient data” category, meaning the FDA just doesn’t have enough evidence yet to confirm whether they’re safe for long-term, daily use.
(We’ll go more into these questionable ingredients down below.)
And yet, all 12 of these ingredients are still legally allowed while the FDA review continues!
So if you look at the back label of a sunscreen and see anything in the “active ingredients” besides zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, you’re using a filter that the FDA has not confirmed as safe.
These Are the Chemical Filters to Watch Out For
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At a Glance
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Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. These filters sit on top of the skin and deflect UV rays.
Chemical sunscreens work differently. Rather than sitting on the surface and deflecting UV rays the way mineral filters do, chemical filters absorb UV rays and convert them into heat. The problem is that these ingredients don’t just absorb UV, they also absorb into your skin. And when these ingredients are toxic, that becomes a problem.
But there’s another layer to this that you don’t hear about often.
While chemical filters are effective at blocking UVB rays (the ones responsible for sunburn), many don’t offer the same level of protection across the full UVA spectrum. This creates what’s called isolated UVA exposure. It means you might not be burning, but UVA rays are still penetrating deep into the skin.
Why does this matter?
Because UVA is a major contributor to skin dysregulation, DNA damage, and skin cancer, and there’s often no immediate warning sign like a sunburn to tell you something is wrong.
Without that feedback, it’s easy to unknowingly accumulate significant UVA damage over time, especially when high SPF numbers create a false sense of security (more on that later). 4
→ Oxybenzone
This is the most studied chemical filter and the most concerning one, too.
It’s been detected in the bloodstream above the FDA’s safety thresholds after just one day of use. It’s been linked to potential endocrine-disrupting effects, and found to stay in the blood long after application stops! 5
Even worse, it’s the filter most commonly found in conventional SPF, which makes it the one worth knowing about most.
→ Octinoxate
This has also been found to absorb into the bloodstream above FDA limits. 4
Studies link it to thyroid hormone disruption and it’s actually banned for reef toxicity in several places (including Hawaii, Palau, and Key West). 7,8
→ Homosalate
The European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety found that this ingredient is not safe at the concentrations typically used in sunscreens. 9 (But somehow, it’s still legally allowed for use in the United States.)
Like oxybenzone and octinoxate, homosalate has been detected at above-threshold levels long after application. 10
→ Avobenzone, octisalate, and octocrylene
All three of these have been found to absorb into the bloodstream above FDA’s safety limits, too. 10
So technically, the above ingredients are not confirmed as dangerous, and research is still ongoing.
But for a product that you’re applying to your whole body and/or your face, potentially every day, all year long (as mainstream beauty preaches) on yourself and your kids? The “not yet confirmed safe” category and the above studies feel like enough reason to look for better ingredients.
Don’t Trust the Front Label, Either
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At a Glance
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Here’s a way to look at sunscreen that will change the way you shop for it: the front of the sunscreen bottle is all marketing. The back is the information. And they are not the same.
Below are some terms often seen on the front of sunscreen bottles, and what they actually mean.
→ “Clean”
Has no legal definition, no regulatory standard, and no required ingredient criteria.
Any brand can print it on any product regardless of what’s inside.
→ “Natural”
Is equally unregulated.
A sunscreen can have synthetic chemical filters and still call itself “natural” if they also throw in a plant extract or two.
→ “Reef-safe” or “reef-friendly”
Has no legal meaning under the U.S. federal law.
The FDA doesn’t even recognize it. Most products with this label simply took out the oxybenzone and octinoxate while keeping in other chemical filters.
This means that the label changed but the formula really didn’t.
→ “Dermatologist-tested”
Just means that a dermatologist applied the product and observed it.
Not that they evaluated ingredient safety. Not that they passed it through a clinical standard. And not even that they would recommend it.
→ “Broad spectrum”
Is the one exception — this one actually means something!
It confirms that the sunscreen has been tested and proven to protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
“Broad spectrum” is a real, regulated claim you want to look for.
→ “SPF 50”
Sounds more protective than it is.
SPF measures UVB protection only, and the gains above SPF 30 are so small. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks about 98%.
The bigger risk with high SPF numbers is that they can create a false sense of security and make you feel like you don’t need to reapply as often. And reapplication is a key part of sun care!
→ “Mineral-Based”
This one is incredibly misleading, but we’re giving you the scoop.
There’s a somewhat new practice in the sunscreen industry called “sunscreen doping.” It’s when brands add ingredients that act like chemical UV filters to boost the SPF number while still marketing the product as mineral (though it’s a far cry from being truly mineral).
And here’s the motivation behind this doping: mineral sunscreens with high SPF tend to leave a white cast, and there’s a lot of pressure to create formulas that are both high-performing in terms of sun protection and aesthetically pleasing.
So, lots of brands are relying on SPF boosters, which are ingredients that are not listed as UV filters, but still increase the SPF number.
And what this means is that there are becoming more and more sunscreens that are actually chemical-mineral hybrids being disguised as having a “pure mineral formula.”
Here are some SPF boosters that you want to stay away from on the inactive ingredients list:
→ Butyloctyl salicylate (BOS) and tridecyl salicylate: These share the same chemical of octisalate that we talked about earlier. Butyloctyl salicylate is chemically almost identical to octisalate (which means it likely also absorbs into the bloodstream at way higher levels than the FDA deems safe). But BOS is completely unregulated in the U.S., and regulatory bodies in Europe are worried about the reproductive and developmental effects of this ingredient.
→ Trolamine salicylate: This older chemical sunscreen ingredient is one that the FDA has suggested not classifying as GRASE in its updated sunscreen safety review. 11
→ Polyester-8: A synthetic polymer, polyester-8 is used to stabilize sunscreen formulas and boost UV performance. There isn’t a lot of independent research on its long-term safety, but it represents how complicated modern sunscreen formulations are getting in order to support unstable UV filters.
→ Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene: This synthetic photostabilizer is used to help chemical UV filters stay stable in sunlight.
→ Ethyl ferulate: Though the concern about this one isn’t as high as the others, it is another example of how out of hand things are getting with sunscreen formulations that require a laundry list of chemical additives to try and stabilize these unsafe UV filters.
So in short, “mineral-based” on the front of the bottle doesn’t guarantee the formula is free from synthetic chemical additives. So always flip the bottle over, read the full inactive ingredients list, and look for formulas with a short ingredient list of things you recognize!
A Note on Spray Sunscreens
Beyond the ingredient concerns that apply to all conventional SPF, aerosol spray sunscreens bring with them an added layer of risk.
Research shows that spray sunscreens give off volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including benzene, tulenes, and xylenes as a byproduct of the propellant used for the spray. 12
These are inhaled when you apply, and have been linked to respiratory irritation and health risks when used repeatedly. 13 In fact, several major spray sunscreens were recalled over the last few years after testing revealed benzene contamination! 14
And then there’s the practical problem: wind dispersion means that you might not be getting the coverage you think you are. On top of that, because most spray sunscreens also have synthetic fragrance, that also disperses into the air around you, affecting people nearby!
A cream or stick is the more safe and reliable choice on both accounts.
→ SHOP THIS RITUAL: Sun Cream SPF 30 | Sun Stick SPF 25 | Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 | Lip + Cheek Tint SPF 15 | | Sun Lip Balm SPF 15
Check the Inactive Ingredients, Too
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At a Glance
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The active ingredients usually get the most attention. But the inactive ingredients (which is everything else in the sunscreen formula) actually make up the majority of what you’re putting on your skin.
And they are absolutely worth paying attention to.
→ Refined seed oils
Sunflower, safflower, soybean, and canola oils are commonly used as bases in conventional SPF. These oils are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids that are chemically unstable.
And here’s the worst part: these refined seed oils oxidize under heat and UV exposure, which means they can generate free radicals* directly on your skin. 15 In a sunscreen. In the exact product you’re using specifically to protect against sun damage. Wild, isn’t it?!
*Free radicals are unstable molecules that attack healthy cells and your body naturally produces antioxidants to neutralize these free radicals. But with unhealthy sun care, free radical production can build up in your skin faster than your body can neutralize them. The result? Damaged cells, the breaking down of collagen, a disrupted skin barrier, an inflammatory reaction in the body (which is bad for your skin and your overall health), and the speeding up of the aging process. This is why it’s so important to time your sun exposure, prep for time in the sun, and recover from days outside correctly. Supporting your body’s ability to repair itself helps protect you against these damaging free radicals. 16
It’s also important to note that refined seed oils go through high-heat industrial processing that strips them of nutrients and makes them even more prone to oxidation.
This is very different from cold-pressed seed oils, which are minimally processed and maintain their beneficial properties.
When we use seed oils in any of our formulas (like the organic raspberry seed oil in our Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30), they’re always cold-pressed for their skin-supporting benefits. We never use any refined or industrialized oils in any of our products.
And as a bonus, the Organic Raspberry Seed Oil in our Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 has actually been shown to offer natural UV-protective properties of its own! So instead of boosting our SPF formula with hidden chemical additives (ahem), we reach for oils that nature already gifted with protective benefits. 17
→ Synthetic fragrance
You’ll see this on labels as “fragrance” or “parfum,” but this single word can legally refer to thousands of undisclosed synthetic compounds. 18
Research links synthetic fragrance components to a range of harmful effects on the body including endocrine disruption and skin sensitization. 19
There’s no requirement to disclose what’s inside a fragrance blend, which is why we never use it. We stick to fragrance that comes exclusively from essential oils with nothing synthetic mixed in.
→ Parabens
These are preservatives used to extend the shelf life of products and they’ve been found to mimic estrogen in the body. 20,21
They include:
- Methylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
Research also shows that repeated application of parabens to your skin might lead to accumulation that can make these estrogenic effects even worse over time. 21
→ PFAS
Known as “forever chemicals,” these don’t break down in the environment or the body.
And PFAS have been found in many conventional beauty products including sunscreens. 22
Studies prove that with repeated exposure, these forever chemicals are linked to:
- Reduced immune function
- Endocrine disruption
- Developmental delays in children
- Increased risk of certain cancers
Avoiding PFAS should be a priority.
→ PEG compounds
These synthetic emulsifiers and stabilizers are usually found in water-based formulas.
PEGs can increase your skin’s permeability and boost the absorption of other ingredients along with them. 23
So when you’ve got a sunscreen formula that also has potentially harmful chemical filters, it's important to know you may be absorbing even more of the damaging ingredients into your body.
→ Synthetic preservatives (like BHT)
This common filler in conventional products is a synthetic antioxidant that’s also used to extend shelf life.
Research has uncovered that BHT penetrates the skin and that topical application is linked to toxic effects in the lung tissue of animals as well as liver and kidney effects at higher doses. 24
The European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has also taken a look at BHT for its potential endocrine-disrupting properties. While the research isn’t conclusive, we prefer to err on the safe side — especially when natural, skin-supportive antioxidants exist. In our SPF formulas, we use non-GMO vitamin E as a natural preservative along with antioxidants like astaxanthin and seabuckthorn oil that actively nourish and protect your skin. They offer benefits for your skin that synthetic antioxidants could never!
→ Synthetic pigments and artificial dyes
If your sunscreen, lip, or cheek product has any tint or color, this is important.
Synthetic pigments and artificial dyes are often used in conventional tinted SPF and makeup to get a consistent shade. We love a little bit of color, but the problem with these is that they use petroleum-based dyes that can cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and even more health concerns if you’re using them regularly.
This is why we are so excited that our Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 and our Lip + Cheek Tint SPF 15 are formulated without synthetic dyes or artificial color. Instead, we use a mineral tint complex with sustainably sourced botanicals, mica and iron oxides to color our formulas, which are naturally occurring pigments found in the earth! And for our Lip + Cheek Tint, the color comes from the warm, natural shades of our plant and mineral-based ingredients (like Organic Sea Buckthorn Oil).
No petroleum-based dyes. No artificial color additives. Just beautiful, natural color that’s as clean as the formula it lives in!
What Clean SPF Actually Looks Like
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At a Glance
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Now that we’ve covered what to avoid, let’s get to the good stuff: what you’re looking for in your SPF.
→ In the Active Ingredients
Non-nano zinc oxide should be the sole UV filter.
Why non-nano?
Because zinc oxide particles at this size are too big to penetrate the skin’s outermost protective layer. This means they stay on the surface and protect without absorbing into the bloodstream. 25
And they give you true broad-spectrum UVA and UVB coverage, which is key! But the benefits don’t stop there! Zinc oxide is also naturally anti-inflammatory and it’s the only active sunscreen ingredient approved by the FDA for use on infants under 6 months old!
Though titanium dioxide is one of the three sunscreen ingredients approved as safe by the FDA, we talked to our formulator, Tommi, about it and she had some really key things to share:
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Titanium dioxide is better than chemical sunscreen ingredients, but there are two forms of it that can be used: anatase and rutile. Rutile is safe, but the anatase form causes free radical damage to the skin under UV light.
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Lots of suppliers of titanium dioxide use the safe rutile form, but there’s really no way to know which form your sunscreen has (unless you confirm with the manufacturer).
The FDA’s recent addition of bemotrizinol to the GRASE list is an improvement over the questionable chemical filters currently on shelves. But we are staying true to zinc oxide. Bemotrizinol is still a chemical filter, which means it absorbs into the body and that’s not something we want. Though the penetration is low, it’s still there.
That’s why Primally Pure has decided to steer clear of both titanium dioxide and bemotrizinol and use a new type of non-nano zinc oxide that provides broad spectrum coverage and leaves a minimal white cast on your skin.
Clearly, we love zinc oxide for many different reasons. It:
- Is photostable (meaning it doesn’t break down or generate free radicals under UV exposure)
- Provides comprehensive broad spectrum UVA and UVB coverage
- Is gentler on sensitive and reactive skin
- Works with the skin’s biology instead of against it
For us, zinc oxide is the easy choice.
→ In the Inactive Ingredients
You want a sunscreen base built on stable, biocompatible fats (like tallow, mango butter, and beeswax) rather than refined seed oils.
- No synthetic fragrance
- No parabens
- No PFAS
- No petroleum derivates
And if you can find formulas that include topical antioxidants like astaxanthin or seabuckthorn oil, even better! These aren’t just fillers — they actively support your skin’s own defenses through the day.
Our Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 is a great example of this in action. It’s formulated with astaxanthin, bakuchiol, and seabuckthorn oil so the SPF step in your summer skincare ritual is nourishing, renewing, and protective — down to a cellular level.
You can read more about why astaxanthin is such an important ingredient in our astaxanthin benefits blog.
What Our SPF Collection Does Differently
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At a Glance
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We built our entire SPF collection around the highest standard of safety and efficacy, and we hold ourselves to it.
Every Primally Pure SPF product uses non-nano zinc oxide as the sole active UV filter. Our bases are formulated with grass-fed tallow, mango butter, and beeswax — stable, skin-compatible fats that absorb cleanly, support the barrier, and don’t oxidize under sunlight.
We never use refined seed oils, synthetic fragrance, petroleum derivatives, PFAS, synthetic dyes, or chemical filters.
But we aren’t just proud of what we left out of our formulas. It’s what we put in them.
Our Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 is formulated with:
→ Astaxanthin and seabuckthorn oil for antioxidant defense
→ Bakuchiol for gentle, sun-safe skin renewal
→ Kakadu plum for brightening
→ Cold-pressed raspberry seed oil for its natural photoprotective properties
→ Moringa oil and karanja seed extract for additional UV-protective support
→ Green algae extract for cellular nourishment
→ Grass-fed tallow, mango butter, and beeswax base
Our Lip + Cheek Tint SPF 15 keeps things simple yet effective, too:
→ Astaxanthin and seabuckthorn oil
→ Grass-fed tallow, beeswax, mango butter, jojoba, and coconut oil base
Every product we formulate is meant to protect you and actively support your skin!
Learn more about why we love animal-based ingredients in skincare and the fatty acids that make tallow so uniquely biocompatible for skin. And our ancestral wisdom blog captures the bigger philosophy behind why we formulate the way we do.
→ SHOP THIS RITUAL: Sun Cream SPF 30 | Sun Stick SPF 25 | Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 | Lip + Cheek Tint SPF 15 | Sun Lip Balm SPF 15
The Label Isn’t The Whole Story, But It’s a Start!
Knowing how to read a sunscreen label is one of those small pieces of knowledge that can change how you shop for sunscreen forever.
Once you know that “reef-safe” is unregulated, that the FDA hasn’t confirmed 12 commonly used chemical filters as safe, and that the inactive ingredients deserve just as much attention as the active ones, you can’t un-know it.
The good news is that clean SPF does exist! And auditing a label to check for its safety takes less than two minutes.
Remember:
→ Active ingredients first → you want zinc oxide only.
→ Then the inactive list → clean base oils, no synthetic fragrance, no preservatives.Save this article as your guide to refer back to anytime you find yourself shopping for new sunscreen.
And when you’re ready to check what’s in your sunscreen, our SPF Ingredient Checker is your trusted BFF. Just plug in your sunscreen’s ingredients and we’ll let you know if there’s anything to worry about!
Because the sun itself isn’t something to fear. In fact, the sun is one of the most healing elements in nature. And protecting your skin with the right ingredients so you can enjoy more of it without worry and without compromise is something we care about deeply.
We hope this guide makes that a little easier.
XO
Shop This Article
Sun Cream SPF 30 | Sun Stick SPF 25 | Sun Serum Tinted SPF 30 | Sun Lip Balm SPF 15 | Lip + Cheek Tint SPF 15 | Full SPF Collection
Sources
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FDA Expands Sunscreen Options for the First Time in 20 Years | FDA
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PubMed Central | UV wavelength-dependent DNA damage and human non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancer
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ClinicalTrials.gov | Assessment of the Human Systemic Absorption of Sunscreen Ingredients
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JAMA | Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients
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PubMed Central | An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging
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PubMed Central | Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) Seed Oil: A Review
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The International Fragrance Association | About the IFRA Transparency List
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Sage Journals | Final Report on the Safety Assessment of BHT
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